From Dior to Zara – The Story of John Galliano
In lieu of Galliano’s return to fashion, let’s look back at his past that led him to where he is now.
Galliano’s introduction to fashion began at the renowned fashion school Central Saint Martins in London, where Alexander McQueen, Phoebe Philo, and Stella McCarthny also graduated from. Graduating in 1984, his final collection ‘Les Incroyables’, set the tone for everything that followed. Inspired by the French Revolution, it combined historical references with rebellion and sensibility.
The collection was immediately purchased by the boutique Browns, founded by Joan Burstein, after the showing. Following this purchase, Galliano was financially able to set up his own studio in London.
Through his brand, Galliano became a central figure in London’s emerging avant-garde scene. Galliano’s shows were staged with an intense narrative and layers of history, but lacked the funding to sustain his growing business.
The turning point of his career came in the mid 90s, when Galliano relocated to Paris. There, he was appointed Creative Director at Givenchy in 1995. He became one of the first British designers to lead a major French couture house. At Givenchy, Galliano began refining his theatrical instincts within the framework of luxury. His collections were meticulously researched, pushing couture into a more narrative-driven reality.
Just a year later, he was appointed to Dior, a move that would cement his legacy. At Dior, Galliano’s vision exploded into full force. He transformed runway shows into immersive experiences, blending global cultural references. Collections drew inspiration from Egyptian iconography and East Asian dress, among other sources, often merging them into a cohesive fantasy. His work at Dior defined what a fashion show could be – not just a presentation of garments, but an artistic experience.
After his chaotic departure from Dior in 2011, Galliano’s career entered a period of reflection and reinvention. His return to the fashion industry came in 2014 with Maison Margiela, a house already known for its conceptual approach. At Margiela, Galliano’s maximalism met the brand’s deconstructive culture. While still theatrical, these designs were less about the spectacle and more about the craftsmanship, process, and storytelling.
He stayed with Margiela for 10 years, leaving the house in 2024 with a bang. His final collection featured extreme corsetry, padded hips, and sheer lace dresses. The makeup, done by Pat McGrath, garnered global attention, with people from all over trying to achieve the porcelain-doll-like look.
John Galliano’s career is marked by controversy, brilliance, and reinvention. His unwavering commitment to storytelling got him through Central Saint Martins, into Parisian ateliers, and now into mass retail fast fashion.
Honestly, I can’t wait to see what he does to reinvent the ‘Zara archives’, whatever that means. His first collection for Zara is meant to debut in September of this year.
Here are some of my favourite Galliano looks that I hope we can see fragments of in his 2-year partnership with Zara.
